Buenos Aires - Sport and Recreation

Futbol, futbol, futbol - This was the aspect of Buenos Aires I was most excited about before my visit. I planned to arrive a few days before my family so I could watch a handful of matches from the final weekend in this soccer crazy town. Unfortanely, it wasn't to be. Boca Juniors won the title early, and in an effort to save money, the league scheduled remaining matches at earlier dates. Too bad for me.

However, I did get to tour the two major stadiums of Argentina thanks to Tangol tours of Argentina. For anyone going to see these stadiums in the future, you definitely do not need a tour guide. Just get a taxi to each and you'll be fine on your own. I happened to get one to make things easy.  I got to the meeting place, and met Eduardo, an old man and River supporter who would lead the tour. Also on the tour with me were a Colombian couple, Hector and Natalia. Eduardo told them things in Spanish, and then told me things in English. We took a cab around the city.

Estadio Monumental - is the home of River Plate and often the national stadium of Argentina. I had seen it on television many times before, and couldn't wait to see it person. It's in the well-to-do Northern end of the city, and the team is nicknamed "Los Millionarios." We got to the site of the stadium and entered through the Museum.  The red sash of the team was plastered everywhere and the team's theme song was on repeat. Inside the museum, our group entered a time machine that took us to the halls of River Plate history. There was a room for every decade since the club's inception (in 1901) with all kinds of artifacts to study. I enjoyed it. There were video highlights in every room of famous goals and moments.

Once we made our way through the pomp, and the trophy room, we met with more tourists and were escorted to the stands in the stadium. I admit, I got some goosebumps. Everyone was made to take a picture with the stadium in the background, for purchase later. I of course got one. The tourguide walked us around some of the stands, and I noticed they were filfthy. Just like the rest of the city, trash was everywhere, and the season had ended many days before my arrival. At some point the tour guide asked a question in spanish and everyone raised their hand. I didn't so I got some jeers. It turns out she told everyone to raise their hand if River Plate was their favorite team. I got some more polite jeers when I said L.A. Galaxy.

I followed the group back out of the stadium, and around to the player's lockers. I was amazed at how filthy those were too. They were even flooded a bit from the previous night's rain. We didn't spend much time in there, and made our way through the tunnel onto the track around the stadium. We wern't allowed on the grass but we could go everywhere else.

The moat around the perimeter of the stadium was there. It was strange to see it, since I'd glared at it on TV so many times.  The giant Coca-Cola soccer balls and shoes were hanging around the sidelines too. I got a lot of pictures and it was pretty neat. Visions of Copa Libertadores matches and Classicos danced around in my head. After a while, the tour guide lead us back to the museum, through the team shop. I bought a pair of socks.

 

Anyone familar with the stadium will recognize this from TV.

River's sash originated when they needed a way to distinguish themselves from another team wearing all white. It now represents the club existing forever.

 

La Bombonera - Is the nickname (meaning chocolate box) for Boca Juniors stadium, Estadio Alberto J. Armando. Located right in the heart of the poor Boca neighborhood, this is probably the most well known stadium in Argentina thanks to the team's success and Diego Maradona's godlike status. The national team doesn't play matches there, because last time they did, Argentina lost to Peru and missed out on the World Cup in 1970. The feel of La Bombonera was definitely more touristy than the Monumental. The entire place felt like it was catering to visitors from outside Argentina, rather than the local fans. I think the tourists are the only ones could afford the prices.

There are two visuals of La Bombonera that one has from seeing it on TV. The first is the way the crowd rushes and jumps onto the fences behind the goals when a goal is scored. The second is the strange East side of the stadium that looks more like the side of a hotel rather than a stadium, where people like Diego Maradona are seen hanging out of the boxes and singing.

I was really excited when I saw that fence, and immediately had a tourguide take a picture of me jumping on it. This immediately set off a wave of tourists doing the exact same pose. I think everyone who was there knows that scene from watching matches on TV. I got to walk around the box side a little bit, and was amazed at how close the seats were to the grass. In the front row, you can lean over and your head will be aboe the touchline. That would be truly intimidating for any visitors.

We made our way around locker rooms and the innards of the stadium. I didn't know this, but Boca has a great lawn bowling team, and the fields are underneathe the western stands. I was also surprised to see stray dogs prancing their way around the tunnels. I've always wondered how so many dogs end up on the field during South American soccer matches. Now I know. No one cares to put them out, and it's easy for them to sneak in from the street.

I really enoyed the two stadiums, and the only reason I'd probably go back to B.A. would be for meaningful matches in those venues. I have a feeling that if I had grown up in the city, I wouldn't support either club. I've always been a bit of contrarian, and I'd find one of the other 10 teams in the city to support.

This is a statue of Maradona at the Boca Museum. A tourguide said "Pele may be El Rey (the king) but Maradona is Dios (god)."

La Bombonera through the fence. The box side on the right is a box because there are city buildings that block the expansion of the stadium.

I usually make quick thoughtful decisions, but this day I was on the fence.

 

Polo - The sport of kings is huge in Argentina. Of course it follows soccer, but it is taken very seriously, and I've learned that Buenos Aires is the hot spot for international polo. My sister and I signed up for lessons online. Our family caught a ride with our instructor, Fernando, and spent some time out in the countryside trying out the sport.

We went to the Puesto Viejo Ranch, about an hour outside of the city. Upon arrival was the first time I felt like I was breathing clean air during my trip. It was really nice to be out of the rush of the city, and in a place with nature. Flocks of parrots were out and about doing their thing, big birds flew around watching rabbits scuttle about, dogs roamed around the ranch making friends, and the horses waited for us to play some polo. It was great.

The last time I rode a horse was 2003. That wasn't necessarily a problem, because simply sitting on a horse and moving around is easy. My problem, according to Fernando, was that I was not rude to the horse. Getting polo horses to obey you requires a lot of kicking and whipping, and I couldn't get the knack of that. In fact, I abused my horse so infrequently, it lost respect for me. At the end of the day, it repeatedly tried to bite my foot in the stirrup just to let me know it was in control. My sister's horse obeyed her, and she was galluping around like a pro.

When it was actually time to play polo, I was actually pretty good at whacking my ball with the mallet. It wasn't long before I was knocking the ball 40 yards down the field and having my horse trot after it (he refused to run.) The trick for me was to aim my horse about one foot to the side of the ball, and that had me lined up for a good shot every time. Fernando was pleased with my ability. Unfortunately, my sister wasn't so good at making contact, which I attribute to her weak arms.

We were supposed to ride around for about 3 hours, but after just one, our butts were too sore to press on.

Despite a light drizzle, we practiced running up and down the field with the ball for a while, and we had a lot of fun until we got sore. Fernando was a great teacher, and very patient with our lack of skills. I guess he had to be, for the amount of money we paid him for the lessons. I'd highly recommend for anyone making a trip to Argentina to have a try at playing polo.

This horse hated me. I later switched to a white horse that hated me. Laura color coordinated for her helmet.

Fernando explaining how to whack the ball. The mallet is only allowed to be in your right hand. You swing from your shoulder.

The ranch grounds were beautiful.